Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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25 Jun 19, Green Thumd (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
These tomatoes were seeds from seedlings given to a seed seller who grew them out and harvested the seeds and sold them. They are from Guyra Glasshouse (NSW) - biggest tomato grower in Aus I read. These plants have been unbelievable. I grow them on trellises 6-7' long - 3 plants to a trellis. I have 3 trellises about 2.5' apart running N -S and another trellis at my house. The middle trellis of the 3 hasn't produced too many tomatoes - shaded by the others but gee have all the rest produced heaps. I don't know what variety they are (a hybrid) but they produce a lot of fruit and no disease or grubs. Have picked about 40kg and still have approx. 25-30 kg to pick.
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18 Apr 19, karen (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
re: end rot_ always put calcium of some kind in the planting hole then feed with powdered calcium and maybe spent coffee - diluted, a couple of times in the growing season. I collect all my eggshells and use, powdered, for all the mandrake plants, especially the ones in pots - once a month application for potted plants.\
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13 Apr 19, Sandy (USA - Zone 6b climate)
Can I plant my tomatoes now and til April 24 without any damage to my plant. I plan on putting straw around them for added protection
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08 Apr 19, Di Gates (Australia - tropical climate)
I have been planting tomatoes in my veggie patch, but the fruit never goes a nice bright red, they are always blotchy orangey red. I have tried different varieties, but they all do the same thing. Is it the soil, or too much sun, or the bore water which is quite hard? They taste ok, just look unattractive. I was going to try growing them in pots this year, then at least I can rule out the soil.
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18 Feb 19, Mary Doughty (USA - Zone 7a climate)
I'm having problems with grub's in my yard and garden. Has anyone ever used a spray called milky spore. If any one has how long does it take to get rid of them. The moels are reeking havock on everything because of them. Dogs digging after the moels is a completely different story and problem. Any advice would be appreciated thank you.
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08 Jun 20, Ryan Riendeau (USA - Zone 10a climate)
Earth-friendly beneficial nematodes seek out and kill grubs and other soil-inhabiting insects. They come on a sponge (invisible to naked eye) that you soak in water, put in a sprayer and spray your dirt or lawn. They will multiply over time and continue to kill grubs You can buy them online or at your local nursery.
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16 Feb 19, Peter (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
my roma tomatoes have got a big brown spot on the very end just as it starts to show colour, what would you say that is ?
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19 Feb 19, Carmen J. (Australia - temperate climate)
Looks like is lacking calcium, normally we put fertilizer but we forget to put calcium, get some dolomite or some rock dust.
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25 Jun 19, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Use Epsom salt - a teaspoon in the hole at planting and even sprinkle another on top of the soil a few weeks later.
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18 Feb 19, mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Blossom end rot by the sounds of it. Buy some Epsom Salts and put in your garden - from supermarkets. Couple of $$ for 1 kg.
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Further to my posts below. I have found this which I believe is the problem with my bunchy curly leaves on cherry tomatoes. It is called -Tomato yellow leaf curl virus. TYLCV. Department of Agriculture and Fisheries Qld In March 2006, tomato leaf curl disease was found in cherry tomato crops in the south and west periphery of Brisbane. The disease has been found in many crops, with infection levels ranging from 5 to 100 per cent of plants. Losses in severely affected crops have been very high and the disease is a major threat to tomato production. In April 2006, infected plants were also found around Bundaberg. By June 2007, the virus was present in the Lockyer Valley, Fassifern Valley, Esk, Caboolture and Redlands areas. Since 2009 it has become a serious production constraint around Bundaberg. In February 2011, it was found in backyard tomato plants in Mareeba on the Atherton Tablelands. Tomato leaf curl disease is caused by viruses in the Geminivirus family of plant viruses, and is spread by whiteflies. The virus causing this disease is tomato yellow leaf curl virus (TYLCV). This virus is distinct from tomato leaf curl Australia virus (TLCV), which occurs in the Northern Territory and at several locations on Cape York Peninsula. Silverleaf whitefly (Bemisia tabaci Biotype B) was first recorded in Australia in 1994, it is now a widespread pest in Queensland and Western Australia and could become a major pest in most irrigated agricultural areas of Australia. Silverleaf whitefly (SLW) is also known as poinsettia or sweetpotato whitefly and in USA literature it is now referred to as Bemisia argentifolii. SLW has a wide host range (over 500 species) of crops and weeds, and is difficult to control as it has developed resistance to conventional insecticides. Biotype Q was discovered recently in Queensland. There is also an Australian native species. These three biotypes are indistinquishable in the field.

- Mike

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