Growing Beans - climbing, also Pole beans, Runner beans, Scarlet Runners

Phaseolus vulgaris, Phaseolus coccineus : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P              

(Best months for growing Beans - climbing in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 4 - 8 inches apart
  • Harvest in 9-11 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Sweetcorn, spinach, lettuce, summer savory, dill, carrots, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry, cucumbers, zucchini, tagates minuta (wild marigold)
  • Avoid growing close to: Alliums (Chives, leek, garlic, onions), Florence fennel

Your comments and tips

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22 Sep 23, Faith Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
From a publication (University of Mass) CORRECTIVE ACTION IS: 1. Rotate bean with non-host crops. 2.Plow under infected crop residues. 3.Eliminate volunteer bean plants. 4.Select planting dates and schedule irrigation to avoid long periods of leaf wetness when temperatures are warm. 5.Disinfect poles in production of pole beans. 5.Avoid over application of nitrogen and ensure adequate potassium fertilization. 6.Plant resistant cultivars. ==> your issue is the rust sort of creates these pustules that allow the rust to survive over winter, or during crop rotations. You need to ensure you dig the old plants deep into the soil, clean your equipment (poles, garden gloves etc.). I would be inclined to use SULPHUR -- "Sulphur Dust Fungicide and Miticide" is usually what it is called. This dust can be sprinkled all over, on the plants etc. or can be mixed with water and sprayed. Also avoid planting beans in areas of "stagnant air" the plants need to be able to dry out -- in other words water on the plants (moist leaves and stems) are great breeding grounds for your rust. It's actually not a difficult problem to resolve, once you know what needs to be done -- remove and bury infected leaves, and/or sprinkle with sulphur dust, mitigate moisture retention (get the air flow going -- maybe you change up the arrangement of planting so the air flows through the plants and whisks away the moisture.
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06 Sep 23, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Try googling about the rust problem.
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17 Jul 23, Jim Kwasnik (USA - Zone 8b climate)
Here are a few notes and comments regarding
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25 Jun 23, Anonymous (USA - Zone 9b climate)
I put my beans in a wet paper towel then put the paper towel in a baggie. I store them under the kitchen sink for a few days and they sprout. Then I take them out and plant them. This has worked well for me. I don’t plant the ones that do not sprout.
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04 Mar 23, Tim (USA - Zone 9a climate)
I would like your suggestions as to the best vegetable to follow pole beans in the rotation plan, please.
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06 Mar 23, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
There are two main things to think about when practicing crop rotation. The first; what condition (nutrition, minerals, tilth) will this crop leave the soil in. In this case your current crop is beans -- they fix their own nitrogen, so their roots will be full of nitrogen nodules (little white bubbles) and provided you just turn the roots into the ground -- the nitrogen will be available for the next crop. So your next crop CAN BE a heavy nitrogen feeder -- there should be lots of nitrogen there. Also beans do a surprisingly good job at breaking up the soil...maybe breaking up is too strong a word -- beans leave the soil very light and well blended with good aeration. Beans are not heavy feeders and therefore you don't need to worry about them depleting the soil of anything in particular, a basic application of manure should restore things. -- The Second concern of crop rotation is ; pests -- what pests did the beans attract ? Generally beans attract slugs and the sort of insects that feed on tender leaves (as young beans have very nice tender leaves) -- so ideally you want to plant something that these insects/slugs don't feed on -- something like tomatoes (their leaves are not suitable -- or tend not to be suitable for slugs). Then review what you would like to plant -- and determine the plant that best suits the conditions. Nightshades tend to be the most typical choice to follow beans -- Nightshade is a family of plants that includes tomatoes, eggplant, potatoes, and peppers. Since you are probably already set up with poles - I might go for indeterminate tomatoes (which are really vines and require support).
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12 Nov 22, (Australia - temperate climate)
will my climbing beans flower again when the possum eats all the flowers
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04 Jul 22, Lolly Jones (USA - Zone 7b climate)
I have a entire row of beautiful pole beans with blooms but no beans. What do I need to do to get beans?
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05 Jul 22, (USA - Zone 4a climate)
From flower should come beans, give it time.
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08 Mar 22, Kelly (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
In my past experience of growing beans like scarlet runner in Southern Tasmania, they are prolific. And now, I am in Northern Coastline, I have to do the opposite of everything I have done in Tasmania. Nonetheless, it is all about knowing and tweaking the timing. We can always trick the plants to do what we want them to do. (Gardening is not as organic and natural as one may think. It is highly mathematical and formulated if you want the best yield). Good luck experimenting.
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Showing 11 - 20 of 268 comments
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Since I'm from North America, my answer is a "canned/typical" answer. MANY people use the 3 sisters planting here -- -- The "Three Sisters" planting method is a traditional Indigenous companion planting technique using corn, beans, and squash together in clusters. Today’s gardeners will want to keep in mind that Indigenous cultivators who originated Three Sisters farming would have been growing dent, flint, or flour corn rather than sweet corn. The corn stalks serve as a living trellis for their sister beans. Although you can grow sweet corn as a substitute for the flint type, avoid popcorn. The stalks of these plants are short enough that they might be overwhelmed by the other plants. Don’t attempt to substitute bush beans for the pole type, as the former won’t climb. You can choose whichever type of squash or pumpkin suits your fancy for this sister planting. Keep in mind that summer squashes tend to grow more bushy than vine-like, so they don’t make the best groundcover. In addition to the Three Sisters, you may also want to sow other tall plants, like sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke, or amaranth, in the spaces between the hills. There, squash vines will provide groundcover for them. In addition to attracting pollinators, these extra plants can produce a crop, too. Sow them at the same time you sow the corn to give them a head start on the squash vines. This planting creates a symbiotic system where corn provides a stalk for beans to climb, beans add nitrogen to the soil, and squash covers the ground to retain moisture and suppress weeds, offering a balanced, sustainable food source. The sequence involves planting corn first, then beans a few weeks later, and squash after the beans have started to grow, ensuring each plant supports the others as they mature. Plant the corn and beans on a mound -- and the squash around the mound -- plant the additional plants (if desired) between the mounds (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke, or amaranth, or other tall plant). So in your case : 1. build your mounds & plant your SWEET corn in the middle of the mound (also plant the additional plants between the mound if desired - don't forget the boron for the corn), give it a couple of weeks, then 2. plant your POLE beans (or Green bean, string bean, snap bean), once the beans are going, 3. plant your WINTER squash around the mound. IF YOU ARE IN A VERY ARID AREA -- mounds dry out quickly, so you'll need to water MORE OR skip mounding and plant this formation flat.

- Celeste Archer

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