Growing Beans - climbing, also Pole beans, Runner beans, Scarlet Runners

Phaseolus vulgaris, Phaseolus coccineus : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P              

(Best months for growing Beans - climbing in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 4 - 8 inches apart
  • Harvest in 9-11 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Sweetcorn, spinach, lettuce, summer savory, dill, carrots, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry, cucumbers, zucchini, tagates minuta (wild marigold)
  • Avoid growing close to: Alliums (Chives, leek, garlic, onions), Florence fennel

Your comments and tips

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25 Apr 17, Mandy (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
When do green beans ripen
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27 Feb 17, Mike Empson (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
For two years, we have grown scarlet runners on a 2Mtr high frame with pipe outers and wire netting. The plants grow very prolifically, and the harvest was good, but lately the bean pods are significantly reduced in number. They get well-watered, and we pick regularly (perhaps not as frequently as we should) but the beans are tough to eat and quite large. The plant is flourishing well, so is it advisable to trim the tops of the runners, or should we let them grow unrestricted? If we trim them, will the plant still develop? We live in Howick.
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02 Mar 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Short pods on healthy plants could be caused by poor pollination due to heat. Beans are a warm season crop but pollination and bean set on climbers like Scarlet Runner can be reduced on very hot days. I have seen Scarlet Runner with some good pods then a gap on the flower spike where the beans didn't set pods then more pods. Beans are self pollinating and don't set on very hot days. I presume the plants are growing from a root that has been in the ground for a number of seasons. As you suggest, regularly picking is a must to stop beans going tough. Cutting back the tops of the runners will reduce your harvest in the short term but will encourage denser growth and may make the plants more manageable. I trust this helps. Maybe another reader has some ideas to solve your problem.
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24 Feb 17, filippo italiano (Australia - temperate climate)
in pert w a can i plant climbing lama beans or other beans
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26 Feb 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Climbing or pole beans do not set beans in hot weather. This happens even in South-eastern Australia where it is cooler. Climbing beans are generally very good yielders so as a consolation you could just grow bush beans, a few seeds at a time to extend your harvest. Someone else may have some ideas for growing pole beans in Perth. Trust this helps.
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06 Mar 17, Kim (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi....I live in Perth WA and have found blue lake beans reliable croppers(even in summer). They have been affected when prolonged heat, but in general do ok. I have very rich soil which is constantly mulched and have added 20kg per sq m of kaolin clay(soil solver) which is one of the best things I have ever done to improve my soil. I also grow snake beans through out spring summer also. Cheers
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09 Apr 17, Stephanie (Australia - arid climate)
Read your message thanks .... I have an allotment in Perth & want to grow scarlet runner beans.... have you tried them? Are the blue lake variety flat beans Interested to hear about the kaolin Nice to here from someone on this side of Australia
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08 Jan 17, Jo Holden (Australia - temperate climate)
Sowed the Blue Lake climbing beans and had success for number of years, it last 2 summers have problems with brown and sparse leaves. Small crop so far..bed was prepared, and have fed them also water from the top..any ideas or just too hot..have planted a second lot and they look alright?
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09 Jan 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Climbing beans do not set well in hot weather. You can have a row of pods form on the flower spike then a few hot days and none will form, then a few cooler days and more beans will form. I can't say much about the brown leaves except it could be the heat. Trust this helps.
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04 Jan 17, Bob Morrow (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Have been growing Scarlet runner beans for 30 years but the past 2 years have not been able to get any flowers leave a loan not one bean plant above 1 foot.We have had up to 20mm rain here in New Plymouth just about every second day so I have put it down to that the ground has been to wet not only but have pulled out only to find Eel worms chewing on the roots.I have gone and brought some new plants from our Mitre 10 hoping these will grow for me.Can you explain as why I have not had any beans the past couple years.
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Showing 151 - 160 of 268 comments
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Since I'm from North America, my answer is a "canned/typical" answer. MANY people use the 3 sisters planting here -- -- The "Three Sisters" planting method is a traditional Indigenous companion planting technique using corn, beans, and squash together in clusters. Today’s gardeners will want to keep in mind that Indigenous cultivators who originated Three Sisters farming would have been growing dent, flint, or flour corn rather than sweet corn. The corn stalks serve as a living trellis for their sister beans. Although you can grow sweet corn as a substitute for the flint type, avoid popcorn. The stalks of these plants are short enough that they might be overwhelmed by the other plants. Don’t attempt to substitute bush beans for the pole type, as the former won’t climb. You can choose whichever type of squash or pumpkin suits your fancy for this sister planting. Keep in mind that summer squashes tend to grow more bushy than vine-like, so they don’t make the best groundcover. In addition to the Three Sisters, you may also want to sow other tall plants, like sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke, or amaranth, in the spaces between the hills. There, squash vines will provide groundcover for them. In addition to attracting pollinators, these extra plants can produce a crop, too. Sow them at the same time you sow the corn to give them a head start on the squash vines. This planting creates a symbiotic system where corn provides a stalk for beans to climb, beans add nitrogen to the soil, and squash covers the ground to retain moisture and suppress weeds, offering a balanced, sustainable food source. The sequence involves planting corn first, then beans a few weeks later, and squash after the beans have started to grow, ensuring each plant supports the others as they mature. Plant the corn and beans on a mound -- and the squash around the mound -- plant the additional plants (if desired) between the mounds (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke, or amaranth, or other tall plant). So in your case : 1. build your mounds & plant your SWEET corn in the middle of the mound (also plant the additional plants between the mound if desired - don't forget the boron for the corn), give it a couple of weeks, then 2. plant your POLE beans (or Green bean, string bean, snap bean), once the beans are going, 3. plant your WINTER squash around the mound. IF YOU ARE IN A VERY ARID AREA -- mounds dry out quickly, so you'll need to water MORE OR skip mounding and plant this formation flat.

- Celeste Archer

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