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Showing 2011 - 2040 of 20165 comments
Sweet corn (also corn,maize) 19 Mar, Elder (USA - Zone 7b climate)
No, to be safe succession plant. Starting late Feb. thru Mar.
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Cauliflower 16 Mar, Keith SPICER (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
My cauliflowers are frequently attacked overnight in their growing boxes which are about a metre high . What could be the cause of this? There is no evidence other than tooth marks. Rats?
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Garlic 15 Mar, Diana (Australia - temperate climate)
I've tried to grow garlic for a couple of years now without much success. My last crop grown from store bought organic garlic, only had one large bulb. Is garlic a heavy feeder? What is the best way to prepare the bed for them?
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Garlic 20 Mar, Melanie L Schoen (Australia - arid climate)
Sometimes store bought garlic is treated with a chemical that deters it from sprouting. Can you get it from a local supplier? Organic?
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Garlic 17 Mar, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
It does not require a lot of nitrogen - just good friable soil with a little fertiliser.
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Tomato 15 Mar, Sue Di Giacomo (USA - Zone 10a climate)
Does it help to run a misting system during the heat of Florida summertime or would that do more harm than good; ie risk burning the leaves or inviting diseases etc.
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Tomato 17 Mar, Kylee (USA - Zone 5b climate)
my understanding is that keeping the leaves wet may make the plant more susceptible to disease and fungal issues, so its probably best to only water the base of the plant. Just make sure to give your tomatoes some shade throughout the day and i think they'll be alright
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Sweet Potato (also Kumara) 14 Mar, Malcolm (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
I have grown a large bed of kumara in a school garden. The entire bed is covered in healthy top growth. But I can't feel any tubers when I lift up a section of top growth. I'm interested in the comments on pulling up runners, although I may be too late now, in mid-March. Do I just hack away at the long vines, cutting them back to where they enter the soil. Or am I wasting my time, since we are about a month from harvest?
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Sweet Potato (also Kumara) 09 Apr, Will (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
No, you are not wasting your time growing them. Even if there are no tubers, the top leaves can be harvested. They are commonly harvested & eaten in the Philippines. Steam them. They commonly used them with raw tomatoes, in their summer.
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Sweet Potato (also Kumara) 15 Mar, Mike Logan (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
In sub tropical Australia where I live, they grow them in rows. The rows are hilled up about 1/2m high and the slips are planted in the top of the hill. A slip is the last 200-300mm of the vine when they are about 10 weeks old. Plant the slip with the top part out of the ground, Keep soil moist until they start to grow. Your problem is you probably have over fertilised with nitrogen. Go by the time to harvest guide here if you don't have a crop by say 4mths then you probably won't. The potatoes will be around where you planted the tube or runner not along the vines.
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Chilli peppers (also Hot peppers) 14 Mar, TLANGELANI MAGAMANA (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
when is the right time to plant habanero in Tzaneen area
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Sweet Potato (also Kumara) 12 Mar, DeAnn Johnson (USA - Zone 5a climate)
Thank you so much for the GREAT Tip!!!
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Sweet Potato (also Kumara) 15 Mar, (USA - Zone 4a climate)
Read the posting here in the New Zealand section - I just put a reply there about growing Sweet Pots.
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Ginger 12 Mar, Lorna (Australia - tropical climate)
I’m in tropical Nth Queensland, I’d rather grow my ginger in pots/ containers. What would be a suitable size & shape pots/containers to use please?
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Ginger 16 Mar, Fiona (Australia - tropical climate)
Hi Lorna I have grown Thai Ginger successfully in 300mm pot with well draining potting mix in Cairns. I just keep replanting a few pieces after harvest. I mince the ginger, then freeze it in zip locks, in a sausage shape. Easy to cut a bit off when you need it.
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Ginger 15 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have never grown it but probably half a 200l drum. The smaller the pot the more critical the attention to watering and fertilising. Or half a 60l drum. Try at motor car servicing centers.
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Asparagus Pea (also Winged pea) 10 Mar, Lori (USA - Zone 8b climate)
What is the depth of roots for asparagus peas? Do they grow well in containers?
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Asparagus Pea (also Winged pea) 11 Mar, Anonymous (USA - Zone 5b climate)
Containers just need more attention with watering and fertilising etc.
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Asparagus Pea (also Winged pea) 15 Mar, Lori (USA - Zone 8b climate)
Thanks. Do you know how deep the roots go, so I know how big the container needs to be?
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Asparagus Pea (also Winged pea) 24 Mar, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate)
I believe beans (winged beans or winged peas as they are called) are medium rooting depth --> that is 18" to 24". You can go online and search for rooting depth of vegetables and you'll get a table that shows: very shallow, shallow, medium, deep and, very deep rooted vegetables. Where very shallow is under 12" , shallow: 12"-18", medium 18"-24", deep 24"-36", very deep 36+". This is also what they call the EFFECTIVE root zone -- so in reality the plant can go deeper. Tomatoes are deep or very deep rooted (and tend toward the 36+" side) -- but many people grow them in containers that are about 18" deep -- the growth is a bit stunted, but other than that they look fine. So when you see that beans like about 24" of depth, that does not mean you can't successfully grow them in a 15" deep pot. I have found that VOLUME of soil is more important than total depth (it's a bit of a give and take) -- but lets say a 10" deep half barrel would be better suited for winged beans than a 24" deep narrow fluted container. Plants sent out roots to collect the necessities of life; water, macro nutrients (N, P, K, calcium etc.) and micronutrients (boron, iron, zinc etc.) - the roots also provide stability. Beans fix their own nitrogen but still need all the other nutrients and I have found benefit greatly from an application of micro nutrients. Whatever container size or shape you choose you need to ensure all the necessities of life are available for the plant; good aeration in the soil (look at orchid pots if you want to understand really good aeration), enough water, nutrients in a timely fashion. A small pot with little soil volume will need to have nutrition added regularly, as the plant will quickly use up all the supplies available in the soil. Further, I have found that pots with a lot of surface area give me plenty of room to top up the plant with compost or manure -- if you don't have room to top up the soil you need to use liquid fertilizers (like making you own leachate - or buying some commercial fertilizers). I remember when I wanted a container garden (my first ever container garden in the city - having always planted plants directly in the soil as containers tend to be expensive) -- anyhow, I learned the hard way HOW FAST the nutrients get used up in containers -- containers tend to require a lot of amendments (fertilizer) compared to plants in the soil for two reasons: 1. plants in the soil can send their roots out further scooping up nutrients, and using what is already there -- like minerals from rocks 2. nutrients tend to also LEACH out of containers when you water; and you are less likely to leach out your nutrients even in raised beds as you need have "run off" to do so. Hope this helps with your decision on size and shape of your pot !!!
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Watermelon 09 Mar, Trish Deeter (USA - Zone 10b climate)
What are the best seeds to purchase for Zone 10b, Costa Mesa, Southern part of California near the ocean?
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Watermelon 03 Apr, Karen Hutchison (USA - Zone 10b climate)
I have had good luck with Klondike
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Strawberry Plants 09 Mar, Susan Marseglia (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Hi there, I have moved into a new property with strawberry plants. How do i care for them as i presume its the end of the season ? Do i cut back all the leaves / stems ,and have read that i can cut off the runners but what do you do with them? Can they be stored over winter somehow and replanted? Any advice greatly appreciated thanks. novice gardener
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Strawberry Plants 11 Mar, Judy Lewis (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Depends how old the plants are. Strawberries produce well for 2-3 years and then need to be replaced. If they look healthy - no black spot etc - then keep them for another year. Trim off any dead leaves and side-dress with compost. If there are runners, wait till they are firmly rooted in the ground before separating them from the mother plant. Any time from now, these new plants can be dug up and replanted where you want them. I have six rows, and each year, the first two rows are removed, and two new rows replace them on the other side of the bed, never in the same place.
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Strawberry Plants 11 Mar, Anonymous (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
I live sub tropical Queensland Aussie. The commercial growers here plant new plants (runners) in mid April. So leave your plants alone until then. Prepare new ground now to put the new runners into in April.
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Beans - climbing (also Pole beans, Runner beans, Scarlet Runners) 08 Mar, Kelly (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
In my past experience of growing beans like scarlet runner in Southern Tasmania, they are prolific. And now, I am in Northern Coastline, I have to do the opposite of everything I have done in Tasmania. Nonetheless, it is all about knowing and tweaking the timing. We can always trick the plants to do what we want them to do. (Gardening is not as organic and natural as one may think. It is highly mathematical and formulated if you want the best yield). Good luck experimenting.
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Beans - climbing (also Pole beans, Runner beans, Scarlet Runners) 11 Mar, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Yes, growing stuff in southern Aussie seems to be a spring summer thing whereas in the northern half more like autumn winter. Gardening is about germinating and growing in the best season to suit each crop to achieve the best results. I don't grow much in summer because of cyclones, heat, wind, rain, humidity. It is the old - reward for effort equation.
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Beetroot (also Beets) 08 Mar, Kelly (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Is it important to store all my seeds in the refridgerator? Can I simply store it in a plastic box out of the sunlight?
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Beetroot (also Beets) 11 Mar, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Seeds generally only last a few years so best kept in the fridge. If you are going to use soon - this autumn/winter then in a box out of the sunlight would be ok.
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Chinese cabbage (also Wong bok, wong nga pak, napa cabbage) 08 Mar, Kelly Soo (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Looking at the weather this year in Coffs Harbour, do you think I could sow direct for the Napa Cabbage this outside in July?
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Showing 2011 - 2040 of 20165 comments
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